Linda Ellis, owner of this tiny Lincoln Square cafe, fell in love with Holland on her first trip in 2001--the bikes, the easy pace, the friendly people. And she got hooked on pannenkoeken, the large, thin, crispy-edged Dutch pancakes--so much so that she apprenticed herself to a gruff elderly master of the art. The initial result was a tightly compressed menu: a few egg dishes, regular buttermilk pancakes, and three pannenkoeken (apple, chocolate-banana, and bacon and Havarti). "I wanted to start small," Ellis says. "I wanted to be able to control what we do qualitywise." These days, with the help of her daughters, she's expanded her pannenkoeken repertoire to a dozen, offering combos such as raisin and ginger marmalade, apple and ginger, ham and cheese, and bacon, cheese, and mushroom.